On My Plate – Feb

Denise Irvine takes a seat at The Green, in The Sheds, Made Market, 401 Grey St, Hamilton East.

Anticipation is everything and my friend Aimie and I had waited a long time for a booking The Green, Karl Martin-Boulton’s eight-seater chef’s table at Made Market.

The Green is very small, miniscule in fact, it’s been a sell-out from its opening day in August, and its communal table is actually a grouping of comfy high stools around a generous kitchen bar.

From this perch we watch Martin-Boulton as he cooks, plates and works the pass in the neatly appointed kitchen that he has designed in collaboration with friend Andrew Hayward, of Sach Hospitality Design in Tauranga. Martin-Boulton is the sole kitchen staffer, with sommelier Drew Cohen on wine.

We’re in pairs on this Saturday, although quite often a group will book all eight seats. Martin-Boulton says each night is unique, the people, the food and the wine being a moveable feast. Tonight there is plenty of time for private conversations, some group chat, and a commentary on the food by chef as he delivers the dishes.

 There’s no printed menu, you eat what Martin-Boulton’s sourced and prepped on the day but if you flag dietary requirements he’ll look after you on that.

The prep has been painstaking. Most of the dishes involve multiple techniques and Martin-Boulton is frequently in the field sourcing produce from his suppliers as well as doing long hours in the kitchen. He says many of the courses may involve a three or four day process; he’s always on prep.

There are six courses, and we start with a snack presented as a perfect little pie in a crispy rice-flour case: the filling is barbecued corn, pickled onion, fresh feta, confit chicken, sweet corn mousse and sweet corn powder for an extra hit of flavour. See what I mean about umpteen techniques on one plate.

Same with the vegetable course, a high-summer standout of tomatoes (from Tomtit Farm, Matangi) that have variously been blanched, dehydrated,  mixed with tomato molasses, stewed to extract tomato water for sauce and jelly, and served in an exquisite set up  with handmade tomato tuile, labneh, garlic mayo and garlic oil.

The fish dish is brined trevally topped with diced smoked eel and served with parsley mayo and other perfect partners. The meaty main, Oak Range Wagu scotch from Horsham Downs, comes with earthy beetroot grown by Bruntwood’s Greenfern Asparagus, as well as blackberries, foraged watercress, and deep-fried beef tendon for crunch and texture.

 There’s a pre-dessert and a main dessert, whipped frozen marshmallow with sweet sorrel mayo, rhubarb jam and more for the former, and an elegant milk, honey and lemon parfait for the latter, with honeycomb tuile and other sweet touches.

You’d think we’d be done but we make room for an after-dinner selection of Over the Moon cheeses from Putaruru (with local Vilagrad port), and homemade fudge.

Each course/portion has been perfectly judged, and this dinner was never a daunting prospect. The food is light, creative and summery, and the wine matches from Drew Cohen are clever and commendable. They take you to vineyards throughout the motu. The food, on the other hand, is deeply rooted in the Waikato, The Green’s reason for being.

Martin-Boulton has developed a singular style and rhythm, and on this night it was a pleasure from go to whoa.  

• Six-course dinner: food $150, wine match $100; if you don’t choose the wine match there is a comprehensive wine list (and other beverages) to choose from. Cheese course is an optional extra, $20. For more details and bookings, check thegreenrestaurant.co.nz